Only a few miles north of Mrauk-U is the southern boundary of the Chin State, Myanmar's least developed and most sparsely populated state. Add to this the Chin State's rudimentary transportation system and ongoing government restrictions on travel there by foreigners, and you have an area that is inaccessible to us. However, we can get a bit of additional contact with the Chin people by visiting a couple of their villages that lie just outside the Chin State, and that is exactly what we are doing.
Arrival at the First Chin Village
The first village we visit is on the east side of the Lemro River. On US Army maps from World War II it is labeled Pambaung. There are many divergences between names on those maps and names in current use, so we cannot name this village with certainty.
Village Life
All homes and structures we see here are on stilts, and constructed of mats and poles.
Tattooed Faces
One of the ancient customs of the Dai tribe of the Chin people was the elaborate tattooing of adolescent girls' faces in a coming-of-age ritual. The practice has officially ceased for two generations already (though rumors say it continues in some remote villages), but women who have the facial tattoos are still around, and make themselves available for photographs when tourists come to their village.
Other Villagers
At least these beautiful girls are spared the pain and lifetime disfigurement of the facial tattooing.
The girl at right is the only person we see in the Chin villages wearing thanakha face cream. Apparently this is not a Chin custom.
We Do Some Gifting
Of course we have brought donations of clothing, medicines, and hygiene items for each village, as well as a soccer ball. Above, our guide May explains some things to the villagers, and she makes sure they understand the proper uses and dosages of the medicines.
Second Chin Village
Leaving the first village, we backtrack a short distance to another village on the north side of a westward bend of the Lemro River. A US Army map from World War II calls it Chitahaung, while our guide May refers to this one as Lay Thue Chin.
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Left, the village headman and his son. The man at right uses a cane apparently decorated with old flashlights.
Peter explains something to the headman, with May's help.
There are no tattooed ladies here, but plenty of excited children.
